Not What it Seems: The Black Prince Ruby

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The Imperial State Crown Featuring the "Black Prince Ruby"

The Black Prince's Ruby is one of the most famous members of the British Crown jewels, but despite its name, the stone is not a ruby.  The Black Prince's Ruby is actually a deep red un-faceted spinel. The stone, which has been in the possession of the British Royal Family since 1367, was named after Edward of Woodstock, Prince of Wales. It is one of the oldest of gems included in the Royal Collection of Crown Jewels and currently sits in the cross at the front of the Imperial State Crown, just above the Lesser Star of Africa (Cullinan II).

At an estimated weight of 170 carats and a length of almost 5 centimeters, the Black Prince's Ruby is the one of the world's largest uncut red spinel gemstones. The Black Prince's Ruby was polished into a bead-like shape which was drilled, strung and worn as a pendant and various other forms of jewelry prior to it being placed in the Imperial Crown. The drill hole has since been plugged with a smaller ruby.

Why was this spinel misidentified as a ruby? 

As with many other gemstones 'rubies' were historically a category of gemstones that would have included all red transparent gemstones. It wasn't until 1783 that spinel was differentiated from ruby. Spinel and ruby (corundum) can be distinguished based on its chemical properties and physical characteristics. 

Where did the Black Prince Ruby come from?

The Black Prince's Ruby was believed to have been mined in the 14th century somewhere from present-day Tajikistan, which was then known as Badakshan. The stone belonged to Prince Abu Sa'id of the Moorish Kingdom of Granada.  

Edward the Black Prince

During the mid 14th century the Moorish Kingdom of Granada was being attacked and placed once again under Castilian rule as a part of the Christian Reconquest of the Iberian peninsula. Abū Sa'īd's rule was confronted by that of Peter of Castile, also known as Don Pedro the Cruel. According to historical accounts, Abū Sa'īd wanted to surrender to Don Pedro. Don Pedro welcomed him to Seville. When Abū Sa'īd met with Don Pedro, Don Pedro had Abū Saī'd's servants killed and it is believed that he may have personally stabbed Sa'īd to death himself. It is said that when Don Pedro searched Sa'īd's corpse, the spinel was found and added to Don Pedro's possessions.

In 1366, Don Pedro's illegitimate brother, Henry of Trastámara, revolted against Don Pedro. Don Pedro made an alliance with the Black Prince, the son of Edward III of England in an attempt to thwart the revolt. After the revolt was successfully put down the Black Prince demanded the ruby in exchange for his aid. It is thought that Don Pedro was reluctantly obligated to turn the stone over and the Black Prince took the Ruby back to England.

The Ruby resurfaces again in 1415 when Henry V of England wore a gem-encrusted helmet that included the Black Prince's Ruby during his battle in France. In the Battle of Agincourt on October 25, 1415, the French Duke of Alençon struck Henry on the head with a battleaxe, and Henry nearly lost the helmet, along with his life. The battle was won by Henry's forces and the Black Prince's Ruby was saved. The gemstone was worn into battle once again by Richard III who wore the stone on his helmet at the Battle of Bosworth, where he died.

The Ruby as part of the British Crown Jewels

The 1512 inventory of Henry VIII's posessions mentions "a great balas ruby" set in the Tudor Crown. This is believed to be the Black Prince Ruby. It remained there until the time of Oliver Cromwell in the 17th century, when (excepting of the Coronation Chair and several other items) Cromwell had the principal symbols of the king's power disassembled and sold, while the gold was melted down and made into coins. The fate of the Black Prince's Ruby, during that time in England is not clear, but it came back into the monarchy's posession in 1660 when Charles II and the monarchy was restored. In 1838 Queen Victoria was crowned with a new Imperial State Crown made by Rundell and Bridge. The crown contained 3,093 gems, including the spinel at the front. This crown was remade in 1937 into the current, lighter, crown and a small plaque was placed on the reverse of the gemstone that commemorates the crown's history.

This article is a repost from my July 2016 Newsletter. To read the rest of the newsletter click here

The Cullinan Diamond

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April is almost over, but I feel like I would be remiss to let this diamond birthstone month pass without mentioning perhaps the most famous diamond ever discovered, the Cullinan diamond. 
The Cullinan diamond was discovered at a mine in the area that was known as the Transvaal in South Africa, in 1905. Weighing 3,106 carats (1.3lb), it was originally cast aside, believed to be too big for any use. The stone is named after the mine’s (then) chairman Thomas Cullinan. 
However a buyer for the massive stone was not be found. The stone was then purchased by the Transvaal government for £150,000 and was presented to King Edward VII on his 66th birthday. When the diamond was eventually transported to England it traveled by way of the ordinary parcel post while a decoy was sent on a heavily guarded ship.

left to Right: Thomas Cullinan with the rough diamond, King Edward VII, Joseph Asscher cutting the Cullinan, Models of the rough Cullinan diamond and the stones cut from it

The Cullinan was cut into three large parts by Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, and a number of smaller fragments. There is a story that the diamond cleaver Joseph Asscher promptly fainted after splitting the diamond in half, but this is likely just a myth intended to dramatize the stone's history. Ultimately the rough diamond was cut into nine major stones and ninety-six smaller ones. The two largest were incorporated into the Crown Jewels. 

Cullinan I, the Star of Africa
This is the largest stone cut from the Cullinan. The diamond measures 5.9 centimetres (2.3 in) long and weighs 530.4 carats (106.08 g). It is a pear-shaped diamond and is set in the head of the Sovereign's Scepter with Cross. It may be taken out of the scepter and worn as a pendant or suspended from Cullinan II to make a brooch. (Can you imagine the neck ache the pendant would give you!?)

Cullinan II, the Second Star of Africa
This rectangular cushion-cut stone weighs 317.4 carats. It is set in the front cross of the Imperial State Crown, just below the Black Prince's Ruby (which is actually a large spinel).

Left to Right: Queen Elizabeth II at her coronation with the scepter and crown containing the Cullinan I & II, Cullinan I in the scepter, Cullinan II in the crown

Cullinan III & IV:
Cullinan III is a pear-cut, 94.4-carat diamond. Cullinan IV is square-cushion-cut and weighs 63.6 carats. They are both known as the Lesser Stars of Africa. They are also affectionately called "Granny's Chips" by Queen Elizabeth II. Queen Mary, the queen consort of George V, had Cullinan III and IV set in the surmounting cross of her newly acquired crown for her coronation in 1911. In 1914, they were removed and replaced by crystal models. Cullinan III is most frequently worn as a brooch, in combination with Cullinan IV. (Both stones could be placed back into the crown, but since Queen Mary's death on 24 March 1953 her crown has remained unworn.)

Left to Right: Cullinan III & IV in the brooch setting, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth II wearing "Granny's Chips" at her Diamond Jubilee Celebration

Culinan V:
This is a heart-shaped diamond that weighs 18.8-carats. It is set into the centre of a platinum brooch. The brooch was originally part of a stomacher made for Queen Mary to wear at the Delhi Durbar in 1911. 
The mounting of the jewel was designed to be as adaptable as possible. It can be suspended from the VIII brooch and can be used to suspend the VII pendant. It was left all the brooches to Elizabeth II when she died in 1953.

Left to Right: Cullinan V in the brooch setting, Queen Mary in the Dehli Dubar Parurue, Queen Elizabeth II wearing the Cullinan V brooch. 

Cullinan VI, VII, & VIII:
Like the V the Cullinan VI-VIII were set with the Delhi Dubar in mind and are all subsequently part of what is called the Dehli Dubar Parure (see above photo). 
Cullinan VI is marquise-cut and weighs 8.8 carats. It unusually hangs from the brooch containing Cullinan VIII. Along with the V they formed part of the stomacher of the Delhi Durbar parure. 
Cullinan VII is also marquise-cut and weighs 11.5 carats. It was originally given by Edward VII to Queen Alexandra. After his death she gave the stone to Queen Mary, who had it set as a pendant hanging from the diamond and emerald Delhi Durbar Necklace, of the Delhi Durbar parure.
Cullinan VIII is a cushion-cut diamond weighing 6.8 carats. It is set in the centre of a brooch forming part of the stomacher of the Delhi Durbar parure. As mentioned earlier it can be paired with Cullinan VI to form a brooch. Queen Elizabeth II is rarely seen wearing this brooch, however she has worn the Cullinan V many times. 

Left to Right:  Cullinan VI and VIII together as a brooch, Queen Elizabeth II wearing VI and VIII, Cullinan VII as a pendant in the Dehli Dubar (diamond and emerald) necklace, QEII in the Dehli Dubar Parure, Queen Mary in the Dehli Dubar Parure

The Cullinan IX in it's setting

Cullinan IX:
This was the last large diamond that was cut from the Cullinan. It is pear-cut and weighs 4.4 carats. It was mounted into an openwork 12-claw platinum ring setting for Queen Mary.